Everest Base Camp Trek - Part 6

Everest Base Camp Trek Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Part 4 - Part 5 - Part 6

While I somewhat recovered, my friends suggested we arrange for a helicopter. This was something. From feeling almost okay to getting back to Lukla on a helicopter in such  a short time was something I was not able to comprehend. I resisted. Thankfully me friends were more sensible.

Golden crest @ Lobuche

Everest Base Camp Trek - Part 5

Everest Base Camp Trek Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Part 4 - Part 5 - Part 6

Next morning we started after another cold breakfast for Narkang. It’s an adjacent hill to Dingboche. The climb was steep. We started as a batch but someone kept calling quits so by the time we hit the top only five of us were remaining. The view from here was breathtaking. Dingboche and Periche (one of our stops upon returning) were clearly visible.

On way to Narkang peak

Everest Base Camp Trek - Part 4

Everest Base Camp Trek Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Part 4 - Part 5 - Part 6

Tiangboche is only 1000ft above Namche. However crossing a river means going 2000ft down and then 3000ft up. The route plan was also not helpful. Going down, the easy part, was before lunch and going up was post-lunch. Unaware of details since there was no briefing, we started merrily on the flat looking trek towards Tiangboche.

View from the Tiangboche climb

Everest Base Camp Trek - Part 3

Everest Base Camp Trek Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Part 4 - Part 5 - Part 6

At night we had a scuffle with our trekking agency as they were forcing us to eat food from restaurant of our hotel. Namche is unique in the EBC route as it has numerous options for eating and shopping. This was another way for the agency for earning money. We rebelled and ate at a nearby bakery.

First glance of Namche

Everest Base Camp Trek - Part 2

Everest Base Camp Trek Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Part 4 - Part 5 - Part 6

We rested in a restaurant that was only about 100m away from the airport. In fact entire Lukla is within the walking distance of the airport. By 11 we were fresh and started for our next stop which was Phakding. Professional trekkers go for Namchi directly but we were amateurs.

On way to Phakding

Everest Base Camp Trek - Part 1

Everest Base Camp Trek Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Part 4 - Part 5 - Part 6

We were all gathered in Kathmandu in one hotel ready to embark on one of the toughest trek we had attempted. It was evening and a small briefing was planned before we took off to Lukla next morning. It was here that I met the batch that was going to be together for next 10-12 days for the journey to the Everest Base Camp.

Lukla Airport

Bauddhanath Stupa, Kathmandu

• Buddha Stupa is one of the grandest structures in Kathmandu. With a busy marketplace surrounding it and some of the famous eateries nearby, this is a place to be.
• There is no entry fee but the place gets crowded so early morning is the best time to visit.

A Stupa is a Buddhist religious structure that represents the learning and messages of Buddha. It is always white in colour and hemispherical in shape - probably indicating the non-violence doctrine of Buddhism. We visited Buddha Stupa on our way to Bhaktapur Darbar Square and Changunarayan Temple. The three heritage sites can be easily covered over a single day if you start early.

Bauddhanath Stupa, Kathmandu

Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

• One of the most revered temples in the Indian subcontinent, Pashupatinath Temple and the evening celebration is a must visit in Kathmandu. It takes couple hours in total.
• Evening is the best time to visit so that one covers the famous aarti on the banks of  Bagmati river. Photographs inside the temple are not allowed. 

We had to visit Pashupatinath temple coming from India. As per Indian mythology when Sati died her body parts fell in different parts of Indian subcontinent but the most important part that is her head fell at Pashupatinath which makes this one of the most prominent religious sites around.

Entrance to Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

Chandragiri, Nepal

• Chandragiri is a half day activity from Kathmandu. The ropeway is the key attraction although the view from the top is equally stunning.
• Cab will take USD 30-40 depending upon how long you make them stay at the base of the ropeway. There are resorts as well near the peak.

A trip to Chandragiri peak was surprise. We were aware of this attraction but given there was so much of heritage to cover in the Kathmandu valley, we were not such this will make the cut in our itinerary. We did make it to the peak and while we found the place covered with clouds, it was still a most unique experience.

Chandragiri Cable Car

Thamel, Kathmandu

• Thamel is the backpacker’s heaven in Kathmandu, located in the middle of city and host some of the cheapest hotels and bars
• Even if you want a spacious / luxurious stay, it is recommended that it is closer to Thamel
• Kathmandu Darbar Square and Garden of Dreams are two complexes diametrically to each other at the periphery of Thamel and can be covered together

Our Hotel was adjacent to Thamel. It was a huge convenience. It meant most of our movements, be it for restaurant, bar or sites, we were able to do it walking. Even late night outings were possible on foot. In fact we realised late how colourful the night life in and around Thamel is.

Kathmandu Darbar Square, Thamel

Swayambhu Stupa, Kathmandu

• If you are staying near Thamel, you can actually walk to this place early morning. Take the steps instead of the winding road. Beware of monkeys, they are numerous and greedy.
• View from the top is amazing, one of the few high points overlooking the Kathmandu valley.

On a crisp morning we started walking from our hotel near Thamel to Swayambhu Stupa. The map said it was less than three miles. We stopped at an open restaurant on the way for an english breakfast of toast, butter, jam, omelette and coffee. We reached at the base of the Stupa in no time and really loved our idea of a walk.

Swayambhu Stupa, Kathmandu

Patan Darbar Square, Kathmandu

• Patan Darbar Square faced maximum damage during the 2015 earthquake, the restoration work is going on even 7 years later
• The late evening time with lighting and less crowd is more suited for those who want to check this place thoroughly

Patan Darbar Square is the most prominent of the darbars not just because of its exquisite beauty but also because of the significant damage and restoration work that it had to go through after the devastating 2015 earthquakes. The darbar, a Unesco World Heritage Site, houses more than 50 temples within its premises.

Patan Darbar Square at night, Kathmandu

7 Heritage Sites of Kathmandu Valley

 While Kathmandu valley is a Unesco World Heritage Site, it actually constitutes seven separate entities that comprise into the WHS. They are:

A. Kathmandu Darbar Square

B. Patan Darbar Square

C. Swayambhu Stupa

D. Buddha Stupa

E. Pashupatinath Temple

F. Bhaktapur Darbar Square

G. Changunarayan Temple

 7 Heritage Sites of Kathmandu Valley

It takes 2 days minimum to cover all the sites although it may take more than a day to cover each one in the true sense, such is the grandeur of Kathmandu valley. Day 1 can be dedicated to A, B & C while day 2 can be used to cover D, E, F & G.

Kedarkantha Trek - Part 2

While resting and entertaining ourselves at Kotgaon we were informed that the entire trek is not possible and we can only go till Juda ka Talab which is the first night camp on the way to the Kedarkantha peak. We came back to our stay and prepared for the next day hike. Next morning our blood pressure and oxygen was measured before giving us a go ahead and we packed our lunch for the day trek.

Juda ka Talab, Kedarkantha

The trek to Juda ka Talab is steep but beautiful. There are stretches of Deodar and sound of running water all the way to the camp. On the way we halted at a tea stall, the owner of which was famous for playing flute. He entertained us while we munched some of his snacks. We covered the 3 kilometers and 3k ft in less than 3 hours.

Night Camping @ Juda ka Talab

The camps were enticing, surrounded by tall tress and beside the lake. We would have loved to stay here and take the next day journey to Kedarkantha. We took our lunch here and admired the beauty of twin lakes at 9k ft before starting downwards. We had to reach Sankri before dark as the downward journey get treacherous by the night.

Kedarkantha Trek - Part 1

• There was no internet in 2021 in Sankri. Jio had limited service here.
• If you can reach Sankri on your own, you will save one full day of commute. Also you may have options of trekking groups and destinations to choose from at the last minute.
• Sankri is base to some of the most famous treks in Northern India - Kedarkantha, Har Ki Doon, Swargarohini, Ruinsara Tal to name a few. Accommodation and food is not for those who seek luxury, be prepared for that.
• Kedarkantha is a winter trek and two of the three nights are in tents. At a modest height of 12k ft and 3 days of trek, Kedarkantha is the definition of a beginner’s trek.

Sankri is a trekker’s heaven. The entire village is tuned to make sure the trekkers who turn up round the year have as comfortable stay as possible - their livelihood depends on it. Most of the trekkers come from Dehradun which is the closest railway station / airport from here. Generally trekking companies arrange buses which take a whole day to reach this place.

Local Temple @ Sankri Village

Haridwar

• Half day for Haridwar is enough. Move to Rishikesh or Dehradun for night stay.
• Store your luggage at one of the hotel lobbies that offer this service at nominal charges.
• Brahm Kund is shallow and crowded, better take a dip on the other side of Hari ki Pauri.

Although I have been to Haridwar so many times, this was the firs time in conscious memory that we truly explored the holy city. Earlier it was a matter of taking a dip and then moving to either Rishikesh or Dehradun. This time we had the whole day and we decided to cover some major attractions around the city.

Brahm Kund @ Hari ki Pauri, Haridwar

The holy dip at Haridwar is kind of mandatory and an exhilarating experience whatever time of year it is. Our train ticket was for Dehradun but we alighted at Haridwar at 11 in the morning and checked in our luggage at one of the numerous hotels which offer this facility at nominal charges. 

Holy dip at Hari ki Pauri

Hari ki Pauri which is the main ghat of Ganges is few kilometers away from the railway station. We took an e-rickshaw and reached there by 12 noon. In november the Ganges is cold but under the warm sun we took many dips near the Brahm Kund. We were hungry now and settled at one of the famous restaurants adjacent to Hari ki Pauri for lunch.

Udan Khatola to Mansa Devi Temple

Next we took the Udan Khatola (a ropeway) to Mansa Devi temple. The ride throws top view of Haridwar which is very different from the bustling city that you visit. Mansa Devi Complex was crowded and had every kind of restaurant at top as well. We spent an hour here and came back.

Monekys @ Mansa Devi, Haridwar is visible in the background

It was 4PM. We decided to wait for the aarti before moving for Dehradun. We settled at the famous Mohan Puri Wala for tea and snacks. At around 5 the crowd started gathering opposite the main bank. It was a massive crowd. We were late and had to settle at the back. The aarti was not as great as at Dashmesh Ghat Varanasi but we enjoyed it.

Crowd gathered for Ganga Aarti

It was time to head towards Dehradun where our hotel rooms were booked. We picked our luggage and took a rickety bus. Thanks to amazing road between Haridwar and Dehradun, we were at our destination in no time.

Our Lady on the Mount Chapel, Goa

• Reach before sunset and enjoy one of the most stunning dusk possible in Goa
• Heritage sites of Basilica Church are on the way to this place so you can cover that first

We were in Goa without an itinerary and therefore we were here one evening after reading a blog that mentioned this as one of the hidden gems. So it was. We arrived a few minutes before sunset and were mesmerised by the view from the mount itself.

Our Lady on the Mount Chapel, Goa

Cabo de Rama Fort, Goa

• Take our couple of hours for this place, you will love exploring different corners of the fort.
• Nearby Cabo de Rama beach is good but the view from the cliff that drops to this beach is amazing. There is a sea facing restaurant also but its a bit costly.

One of the hidden gems of Goa, Cabo de Rama fort is spectacular. A proper fort with layers, viewpoints, a turquoise lake and beach, we instantly fell for this place. The fort is in south Goa and we found it by accident on our way to Agonda Beach. The approach road to Cabo de Rama has sea on the right side and hills on the left.

Sea view from Cabo de Rama

Chapora Fort, Goa

• Chapora Fort became famous after a scene from Dil Chahta Hai was shot here. As is true for anywhere in Goa, this place is best accessible by a two-wheeler.
• The place has everything to offer but in limited amount. The small trek up to the top, street vendors on the way, the view from the top and of course the DCH spot make it a place worth the visit.

We were in Goa for a week without an itinerary. It was a leisure trip. We had been to Goa twice before and had covered most of the prominent attractions like Aguada Fort, Basilica Church and Spice gardens. We wanted to take it easy and go for one not-too-famous point every morning and then relax the rest of the day. We decided to cover Chapora fort and Anjuna for the day.

View from the top @ Chapora Fort

Ugrasen ki Baoli, Delhi

• The Baoli area is surprisingly small. It makes sense to cover this as part of a set that may include Jantar Mantar & India Gate.
• There is limited parking. It is advisable to park on the outer ring of Rajeev Chowk and walk to this place.

Covid was over - or so we thought. We decided to venture out to a place which was on our list forever. We had crossed this place a hundred times and were never able to visit. As planned, we parked our car near the British Library and decided to walk to the Baoli.

Ugrasen ki Baoli, A stepwell at the centre of the most crowded area in Delhi