Barog

We planned on a whim. We were looking for an outing with our pet golden retriever Leo and found a highly recommended AirBnB called Red Roof Homestay in Barog where we booked two nights stay. Barog is less than 7 hours from Gurgaon. We did not want to test our Leo for longer travel for our first trip together.

View from our bedroom

Chand Baori, Abhaneri

We were testing our new car for a long drive and decided to go for Abhaneri which is about 200km from our home in Gurgaon. Google Maps suggested we go via Nuh towards Alwar. We followed. It was a mistake. It took us a good part of morning and afternoon to just figure out where we can get on track. Now with Delhi - Mumbai Expressway open, it takes less than three hours.

Chand Baori, Abhaneri

Bauddhanath Stupa, Kathmandu

• Buddha Stupa is one of the grandest structures in Kathmandu. With a busy marketplace surrounding it and some of the famous eateries nearby, this is a place to be.
• There is no entry fee but the place gets crowded so early morning is the best time to visit.

A Stupa is a Buddhist religious structure that represents the learning and messages of Buddha. It is always white in colour and hemispherical in shape - probably indicating the non-violence doctrine of Buddhism. We visited Buddha Stupa on our way to Bhaktapur Darbar Square and Changunarayan Temple. The three heritage sites can be easily covered over a single day if you start early.

Bauddhanath Stupa, Kathmandu

Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

• One of the most revered temples in the Indian subcontinent, Pashupatinath Temple and the evening celebration is a must visit in Kathmandu. It takes couple hours in total.
• Evening is the best time to visit so that one covers the famous aarti on the banks of  Bagmati river. Photographs inside the temple are not allowed. 

We had to visit Pashupatinath temple coming from India. As per Indian mythology when Sati died her body parts fell in different parts of Indian subcontinent but the most important part that is her head fell at Pashupatinath which makes this one of the most prominent religious sites around.

Entrance to Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu

Thamel, Kathmandu

• Thamel is the backpacker’s heaven in Kathmandu, located in the middle of city and host some of the cheapest hotels and bars
• Even if you want a spacious / luxurious stay, it is recommended that it is closer to Thamel
• Kathmandu Darbar Square and Garden of Dreams are two complexes diametrically to each other at the periphery of Thamel and can be covered together

Our Hotel was adjacent to Thamel. It was a huge convenience. It meant most of our movements, be it for restaurant, bar or sites, we were able to do it walking. Even late night outings were possible on foot. In fact we realised late how colourful the night life in and around Thamel is.

Kathmandu Darbar Square, Thamel

Swayambhu Stupa, Kathmandu

• If you are staying near Thamel, you can actually walk to this place early morning. Take the steps instead of the winding road. Beware of monkeys, they are numerous and greedy.
• View from the top is amazing, one of the few high points overlooking the Kathmandu valley.

On a crisp morning we started walking from our hotel near Thamel to Swayambhu Stupa. The map said it was less than three miles. We stopped at an open restaurant on the way for an english breakfast of toast, butter, jam, omelette and coffee. We reached at the base of the Stupa in no time and really loved our idea of a walk.

Swayambhu Stupa, Kathmandu

Patan Darbar Square, Kathmandu

• Patan Darbar Square faced maximum damage during the 2015 earthquake, the restoration work is going on even 7 years later
• The late evening time with lighting and less crowd is more suited for those who want to check this place thoroughly

Patan Darbar Square is the most prominent of the darbars not just because of its exquisite beauty but also because of the significant damage and restoration work that it had to go through after the devastating 2015 earthquakes. The darbar, a Unesco World Heritage Site, houses more than 50 temples within its premises.

Patan Darbar Square at night, Kathmandu

7 Heritage Sites of Kathmandu Valley

 While Kathmandu valley is a Unesco World Heritage Site, it actually constitutes seven separate entities that comprise into the WHS. They are:

A. Kathmandu Darbar Square

B. Patan Darbar Square

C. Swayambhu Stupa

D. Buddha Stupa

E. Pashupatinath Temple

F. Bhaktapur Darbar Square

G. Changunarayan Temple

 7 Heritage Sites of Kathmandu Valley

It takes 2 days minimum to cover all the sites although it may take more than a day to cover each one in the true sense, such is the grandeur of Kathmandu valley. Day 1 can be dedicated to A, B & C while day 2 can be used to cover D, E, F & G.

Pattadakal & Aihole

Trip: Badami, Pattadakal, Aihole & Bijapur

• Pattadakal and Aihole are very close and can be covered together. Pattadakal is more complex and is next to a river hence a better choice for resting and lunch.
• Aihole is smaller but filled with temples. There is a nearby temple ona small hillock as well that gives a good view of surrounding area.

Pattadakal Temple Complex

Badami Caves

Trip: Badami, Pattadakal, Aihole & Bijapur

Tips: Winters are more suited for Karnataka hinterlands. Transportation is a challenge if you do not have own vehicle, so either rent a car or come with your own vehicle.

We drove to Badami on a rented car. Earlier the same day we landed at Hubli airport and rented a Zoomcar. It was very convenient. We settled in a pre-booked hotel and made plans for the next few days. We wanted to cover Badami, Pattadakal and Bijapur in next two days. The first choice was obviously Badami. Our hotel was next to the archeological site although the main entry gate was a walking distance away.

Natraj sculpture in front of Cave 1 @ Badami

Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

Trip: Ireland & Northern Ireland

Tips: Take guided tour bus from Dublin if you do not want to drive the whole day. Take the option of boat ride from Doolin to see the horcrux cave, the site of a Harry Potter movie.

Cliffs of Moher was windy and thrilling. The thrill was to walk on a narrow path adjacent to the cliffs facing sea hundreds of feets down. The monument of fallen suggested the thrills was not without risk. Still we took the whole round and watched the amazingly carved faces of the cliff from different angles. Being told that the horcrux cave shooting of Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince was done here made things doubly interesting.

A view of the cliffs

Giant’s Causeway, Northern Ireland

Flint McCool was the Irish giant who built the Giant’s Causeway to teach his Scottish counterpart a lesson or so says the legends of Northern Ireland. However it goes, the hexagonal stones carved by nature are a bizarre abnormality that tourists flock to visit in the northern most part of North Ireland. We were among them and were equally piqued by what we saw. No way these can happen naturally, we thought and yet science says they did.

Incredible natural structures @ Giant’s Causaway

Macau

Macau is a party place. Gambling, consorts and shopping would be the top three activities that one would go to Macau for. Then there is leisure and tourism but those are lower in the list. An hour on speed boat from Hong Kong, Macau is invariably paired with the big brother HK for people coming from far and depending upon the activity, one spends time in each of these SARs. We were in HK for 3.5 days before we decided to take a Cotai Jet to Macau on a sunny afternoon.

Ruins of St. Paul’s

Moscow

Soumenlinna - Helsinki - Tallinn - St Petersburg - Moscow

• Try to learn Russian in bits, its not very different from English. Keep a map of metro lines with you as it is a lifeline in Moscow.
• Most of the attractions are concentrated around Red Square. Kremlin's armoury show is most sought after and you should reach early to buy tickets there.
• Dont forget to try the river cruise and the Russian way of drinking vodka - that is quick shots in succession.

Moscow was convenient and exhausting at the same time. The capital of Russia is grand in every possible way and yet broken into clusters that stand by themselves. Moscow is a city of cities just like any major capital in the world. It has couple of jewels, just like any major town, that fall in many a traveller's bucket list. It has a river flowing right across it. Add to that the football fever that was peaking when we reached with the host city inaugurating the FIFA world cup in a week time. We were at the right place before time.

Arbat Street

Saint Petersberg

Soumenlinna - Helsinki - Tallinn - St Petersburg - Moscow

• Take a hotel as close to Winter Palace as possible. Not only most of the attractions are around this but also the buzz on the street with various kind of artists performing is truly engrossing.
• Book the ticket for Hermitage in advance online. It is bit costlier but will save you lots of time as the entry queue for online tickets is separate.
• Cathedrals are closed on different dates of week so plan ahead if you want to cover a particular one. River cruises are a great way to cover some of them.

Russia is as foreign as I have been to a country. There is almost nothing written in English and almost nobody speaks English. You depend on google to do most of your navigational work and Uber to take you around. We reached Saint Petersberg on a windy midday and immediately felt the handicap of not knowing Russian.

View from Hotel Terrace

Tallinn

Soumenlinna - Helsinki - Tallinn - St Petersburg - Moscow

• Have a good breakfast and carry a bottle of water all the time. Tallinn demands a lots of walk up and down the old town which at times can be tiring.
• Buy a sim when you reach Estonia. Most of the international networks either don't work here or are super costly. Carry an umbrella if you are going in rainy season.
• Take St. Olaf's entry ticket to the top. It costed us €3. There are few views in Tallinn that can beat what you can see from up there. Most of the other entries in Tallinn are free.

The Old Town of Tallinn is a magical place or so it seems. In a space of few square miles, you will come across a hill, a sky high cathedral, few viewpoints and an old way of life. Within the walls of the old town, life takes a backseat. You wish to fill your eyes with the beautiful structures that makes you hungry. There are rows of restaurants within the gullies of Tallinn in case you do not prefer the Town Hall Square that hosts the open restaurants.

Inside the Old Town

Soumenlinna, Finland

Soumenlinna - Helsinki - Tallinn - St Petersburg - Moscow

• Soumenlinna from one end to another would be at least a mile long and given detours, one need to travel at least 3-4 miles to cover the basics. Be ready for these long walks.
• There are beautifully placed restaurants and cafes within the fort walls that tempt you to just settle after a long walk. Do that.
• The periphery throws great views of the sea and parts of fort island. Make sure you walk along the edges to cover that.

Soumenlinaa & Vallisaari are two islands south of Helsinki in the Baltic Sea. It takes €4 and half hour to reach the islands - cheap for the rustic life one witnesses here. It was the same day we reached Helsinki that we ventured for these islands and loved what we saw. Clearly the brightest gem of tourist spots in Helsinki, that were a perfect start to our visit to Scandinavia.

Fortress of Soumenlinna

Sarnath

Trip: Delhi - Lucknow - Varanasi - Sarnath - Delhi

• Best time to visit Sarnath is November-February. The site demands long walks and summers can be sweaty.
• While the main stupa and remains of Ashoka Pillar are significant attractions, the star attraction is the head of Ashoka Pillar preserved in the Archeological Museum next to the excavation site.
• The adjacent Digambar Jain Temple is dedicated as birth place of 11th Jain Tirthankara Shreyanshnath and has beautiful artwork on the walls.

Sarnath treasures some of the most vital symbols of Indian heritage and it was a pleasant surprise to witness them during the few hours we stayed there. Less than half hour from Varanasi and home to one of the largest buddhist establishments in the world, Sarnath is part of history textbooks. The highlight of our trip was the archeological museum which has as good a collection as I have seen across the world.

Stupa @ Sarnath

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

• Start early with balanced breakfast. The uphill climb takes 2 hours including breaks so by the time it is noon you would be climbing down in heat with the most clear view when you were up there.
• Don't miss the frescoes painted on the cavern of western wall of Sigiriya. They are some of the most exquisitely painted frescoes that are still preserved probably due to the cave.
• Enjoy the different views that elevation throws at different levels. Explore the top of Sigirya a little. People tend to just hit the top and come back.  

Sigiriya Lion Rock is not just a tourist attraction. History says it was seat of the most powerful king who ever ruled the island nation. Add to that the buddhist monastery in the caves of the gigantic monolith and a view to behold from the top. The result is an unmatchable structure that may very well have cake-walked into the Unesco World Heritage Site list. While the front view of Sigiriya is intimidating, the trek and the experience is equally exhilarating.

View from middle, Sigiriya Lion Rock

Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka

• Bring couple of umbrellas and your passport. Foreign tourists get a healthy discount on a pricey entry fee to this city of ruins.
• You will need a dedicated vehicle for a full day (or two if you are of an archeologistic bend of mind) to nail this one. It is so huge.
• Sleeping Buddha is the star attraction although for me the Pabalu Vehera was the one appreciated the most. We found a spot here where our voice was echoing in open.

The ruins of Polonnaruwa are famous. The fact that an entire city dedicated to the worship of Lord Buddha in Sri Lanka was astonishing for us coming from India. It was this curiosity and the fame that drew us to the ruined city on the very first day of our stay in the central province. The one hour drive from Sigiriya was pleasant and scenic. We came across a massive Buddha statue beside a lake on the way which set the tone for the city.

Parakramaabahu Palace Complex, Polonnaruwa