Srirangapatna

Trip: Bangalore > Ramnagaram > Srirangapatna >  Mysore >  Bandipur >  Mudumalai >  Ooty >  Coonoor >  Bangalore

Srirangapatna is a small diversion on Bangalore-Mysore highway and so we took it on our way out from Mysore. The geography of this fort city hints why Tipu Sultan moved his capital here. It is a natural island created by forking of river Kauveri.

3 Points @ Srirangapatna Tourist Map

Halebidu

Shravanbelgola - Chikmagalur - Belur - Halebidu

Halebidu is in the middle of Belur and Hassan although through an alternate route. The Shiva temple at Halebidu is inspired by the Vishnu temple at Belur. What adds to the charm is a flowing river by the side - and seclusion.

Belur

Shravanbelgola - Chikmagalur - Belur - Halebidu

The Chennakesava Temple, in Belur on our way to Chikmagalur, was ancient and marvellous. We stayed in the premises of this extensive work of art for almost three hours but were still not able to fathom the intricacies that were sculpted all over.

Backside of Chennakesava Temple

Belur was capital to art-loving Hoysalas. Approximately thousand years ago they started the construction for this temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. A similar construction started some hundred years later nearly 10 miles away at Halebidu but this one was for Lord Shiva. This twin set-up has been put up for UNESCO World Heritage Site waiting list and by the look of it, deserves it.

Mandapam, Belur

The most striking feature of the temple complex is the ceiling of central chamber. One can spend hours. We moved to one of carved pillars and took extensive photographs. Each pillar was different and beautiful.

Sanctum Sanctorum, Chennakesava Temple

We moved out and were dumbfounded to see that the entire outer wall was an extension of artwork that we had admired inside the temple. Elephants and horses were abundant. There were stories of war and important events carved on stone.

Intricate rock carvings, Belur

We had to reach Bangalore by evening and so we left. Halebidu was next and if it was anything closed to this one, we had another couple hours to look after.

Trip details

Ellora

Trip: Aurangabad > Ajanta > Lonar > Daulatabad > Ellora

We started our trip to Ellora with a pint of beer. It was available in MTDC Restaurant right at the entrance of Ellora Cave Complex. We were little drowsy as we closed in on the main temple building. The concept of this structure broke some of our lethargy as the entire temple is carved out of 125000 cubic metre of one solid rock.

Elephants, Ellora Caves

Daulatabad Fort

Trip: Aurangabad > Ajanta > Lonar > Daulatabad > Ellora > Aurangabad

• A full fledged 7 tiered fort, Daulatabad is worth studying on the defense systems of forts used by early rulers of India. At worse its a healthy trek to the top.
• Dont miss the bat cave, a set of staircases to the top only few hundred metres long but full of squeaking bats. You need to cross it to reach the top.
• Within few miles of Daulatabad are the grand Ellora Caves and Grishneshwar - one of the twelve jyotirlingas, both dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Daulatabad Fort is impregnable by the look of it - a layer of seven increasingly difficult barriers from bottom to top. We arrived at the foot of this hill fort through a shared auto that runs frequently from Bawa Petrol Pump in Aurangabad City. The entrance is a massive wooden gate that opens to view of a high watch tower and the fort itself. The gate is not counted among the seven layers of defence.

View from Bharat Mata Mandir

Lonar Crater

Trip: Aurangabad > Ajanta > Lonar > Daulatabad > Ellora

Imagine a mile wide and 150m deep pit. Worth watching? Naah. Now add the fact that a meteor created it some 60,000 yrs ago. Geeks would be interested. What if I tell you that this is the third largest impact crater in the world and right in the middle of our backyard? I hope you will go have a look.

Lonar Crater, Lonar

Ajanta Caves

• Setup your base at Aurangabad. There is enough for five days. Ajanta Caves are a day trip from here. The system of transport created is to cater huge crowd so it takes a while to reach.
• Photography is allowed. During or after Monsoon, a waterfall also comes alive in the middle of this U shaped masterpiece.
• Paintings are still in good shape. Overall the facility is well maintained. Trek the hill in front of the caves for a bird eye view. 

We sat on the engine of the tourist bus for a 100 miles. Then we waited for pollution free buses that connect the base of Ajanta with the cave complex. All the efforts found their return in one turn of view of the knoll shaped hills of Ajanta.

Panoramic View, Ajanta

Aurangabad

Trip: Aurangabad > Ajanta > Lonar > Daulatabad > Ellora

When we told friends that we will be in Aurangabad for Christmas the question we faced invariably was 'What's there in Aurangabad?' Any reply to that question would be an understatement. 

Chand Bibi's Tomb, Aurangabad

Fatehpur Sikri

Agra - Fatehpur Sikri - Bharatpur - Mathura - Vrindavan

A trip to Agra is not complete without visiting the capital of Mughal Empire during Emperor Akbar's reign - Fatehpur Sikri  The drive to this small fort town is partly rough partly smooth.

Main Gate, Fatehpur Sikri

Rome

Trip: Zugspitze > Pisa > Rome > Vatican City

The original idea was to cover the five points of the cross decribed in Angels & Demons. However at 3PM the three of us were only checking into a hotel room. It was walking distance from Station. We now had exactly 24 hours in Rome  By 4 we had a definite plan which was bit different from the original one. Colosseum was the closest and hence we found ourselves walking towards the grand structure in no time.

The Colosseum@Rome

Jelling

They pronounce 'J' as 'Y' here in Denmark. My plan for the day was to visit the famous Runic stones, a UNESCO world heritage site at Jelling (pronounced as Yelling). One of my first excursion to Danish countryside affirmed the general opinion that indeed Denmark has a dull weather. It compliments the peacefulness that the country offers.

Runes on the rock, Jelling

Referred as the birth certificate of Denmark, these runic stones were carved by King Gorm and his son Bluetooth. I was not expecting the carvings to be comprehensible.

As the weather turned from sunny to cloudy and from still to windy within minutes, I decided to take shelter in the nearby Fakta store. Buying some bananas and a coke, I came out with little relief. The wind had slowed down. I decided to climb one of the large mounds in the area for a somewhat ariel view.

Settling at the top I finished off my bananas and coke and took  a few pictures. The stones were spread in a small area around a church which evidently has also become a graveyard.

Taking a cue from the minimal crowd present and a direct train for Copenhagen scheduled for 2.18 PM, I took leave from the revered stones and settled in the first clas compartment of DBS Tog thanks to my eurorail pass.

Kanheri Caves

Trip: Delhi > Jaipur > Udaipur > Ranakpur > Ahmedabad > Mumbai > Davangere > Chitradurga > Bangalore

To have something like Kanheri in the middle of Mumbai is incredible. The place reminded me of Ajanta which by co-incidence I visited 5 years ago with Bhaiya only. It was a warm afternoon of June when we visited Borivali National Park. In terms of location, it is almost at the backyard of Bhaiya's home.

The first impression of this place is that of few remarkable structures carved out of rock. The is a giant statue of Budhdha in the very first cave. However this part is just a warm-up. What lies beyond these is unimaginable. There is a bridge which one needs to cross. A monsoon river flows below it during June-July. Taking a flight of stairs, the entire area is visible. The view is unthinkable. 

There is chain of small and large caves built up in ancient times for the 'bodh bhikshu' is visible. The planning is another amazement. There is a common mess,  a sitting place for the senior most monk, a series of wide caves possibly constructed as a guest house. Then there are 100s of caves of varying sizes built on both sides of a narrow gap.

At the top, there is large area with smooth slope where, I was told, people come at evening and find peace in the middle of the commercial capital city.

Humayun's Tomb

Bhaiya was in Delhi. We had to go somewhere. We thought why not Humayun's Tomb. Its close. Its a popular heritage site. Most importantly, in our more than 10 years of stay in Delhi we never visited the place before. So I called upon my cousin Animesh and the three of us ventured on a short exploration.

Isa Khan's tomb

Tughlakabad Fort

It was Bachcha's idea to go for the Tughlakabad Fort. Google maps suggested it was almost in our backyard. It was a mistake and we realized that after an hour of leaving home when there was no fort nearby to us. Eventually we reached the gates and realized it was on the Mehrauli Badarpur Road although not very conspicuous.

We entered the fort area and after some shoots, tried to do something different. The walls of fort are tricky. We started moving on this and reached one corner of the fort complex. The view from there was awesome. We could see the walls of Tughlakabad Fort going for miles. It was time to take few royal pictures.

We did not return back and kept moving forward on the walls seeking an exit. It came after some exploration and it directly took us to the top of the fort which was kind of a plateau. We could see the entire complex from here. In the shade of dying sun, the ruins looked all the more enchanting.

We tried to visit another part of this fort which was at some distance and captured various shades of twilight before deciding to go for the Chicken Parathas and Macaroni at Tankoos.

Taj Mahal

 Agra - Fatehpur Sikri - Bharatpur - Mathura - Vrindavan

• Given the walk around and marbles that reflect heat, it is best adviced to visit Taj Mahal in Winters. The access roads are blocked for half mile where you need to park.
• Foreigners are charged 20X more than Indian nationals for entry fee. The amenities are almost non-existent and if you go on a weekend, be ready to go through a crawling crowd.
• Book a hotel nearby for a glance at night. People plan their visit on a full moon to see the white marbles glow in the dark.

Taj Mahal is magnificent - a structure unmatched in grandeur across the globe. A rich history and an exquisite location at the banks of Yamuna makes The Taj Mahal a wonder among wonders. My friends who had come from UK were insisting for The Taj. Hence we started early morning in August at 5.30 AM for Agra. Shaun and Nicola were the ones I was giving company. The highway is pretty smooth but the key to trip to Taj Mahal is starting early. We reached Mathura by 8 AM. There is a McD on the highway where we had our breakfast. 

Taj Mahal, Agra 

Chittorgarh

Jaipur - Ajmer - Chittorgarh - Udaipur

• Chittorgarh can be covered over a day trip from Jaipur, Ajmer or Udaipur. Delhi is overnight via train. Having own vehicle is definitely an advantage.
• If not own vehicle, take a three wheeler from station for 10$. The driver will also become a guide and help you cover most of the fort area.
• There are staying arrangements near the fort close to the top. Do take the stairs to top of Vijay Stambh. The view is spectacular. 

I was on an official trip to Bhilwara and was supposed to return back to Delhi via train from Chittorgarh. Hearing from people in Bhilwara what a beauty of a fort Chittorgarh has, I started early for the town.

Vijay Stambh @ Chittorgarh

Delhi

Delhi is the heart and capital of India. The royal facades of Lal Quila and ruins of Tughlakabad Fort are enough evidences of the legacy of this ancient city which has now tranformed into a modern cosmopolitan megacity. Humayun's tomb and Qutab Minar are the kind of landmarks on the busy roadside that very few cities can boast of.

Qutab Minar@6 AM

Delhi is, most importantly, the gateway to north India. There are five exits from Delhi for a traveler as numbered from 1 to 5 in the map below.