Hemkund Sahib

• Hemkund is at a height of 15k ft. Best plan an acclimatisation day at Gangaria and a trip to Valley of Flower before attempting Hemkund.
• Check SpO2 before you start and if it is less than 90, take a Diamox tablet.

We reached Gangaria a day before after a long but enjoyable trek from Govindghat. Gangaria is a small village on the way to Hemkund and acts as a base camp for both Hemkund and Valley of Flower. We were surprised to find there was neither internet nor any kind of signal here. Nobody told us that we are going to be disconnected from the rest of the civilisation for the next 3 days.

En route to Gangaria, base village to Hemkund

We woke up early the next day as the plan was to cover the arduous Hemkund first. I was breathing heavily the next morning hence decided to take a horse for the upwards journey from Gangaria to Hemkund. Given that more than 5000 ft are covered in 5 kilometers, the route is very steep even for a horse ride. The trip was uneventful.

Inside Hemkund Sahib

Hemkund Sahib is calmness incarnate. The music of Gurugranth Sahib coming from the fog filled hills as you approach itself transports you to another place. The huge adjacent lake is beautiful and the Gurudrawa is huge. All pilgrims are welcomed with hot soup and eatables. We settled in the Gurudrawa for a while before starting our descent.

Hemkund Sahib and eponymous lake beside

On our way back we took beautiful pictures of flowing river and the snowclad hills surrounding the pilgrimage. A local helped us find the elusive Bramhakamal that only grows at a height of 15k ft. We were happy we came here. Our descent was mostly smooth.

Brahma kamal of the blue variety

Just before reaching the base village of Gangaria I started feeling nausea and fatigue. Accounting for the downhill journey, I neglected it only to find later that I was suffering from acute mountain sickness (AMS). It was a miracle, help of my friends, wife and the Gurudwara at Gangaria that saved my life.

Enroute back from Hemkund

I was quickly transported to Govindghat and then to Joshimath for further medical support and it took me 3 days to recover. I missed the trip to the Valley of Flower and was a burden to my friends for the entire return trip. It was one of the unlucky trips where my condition of AMS was unknown.