Pangong

The road from Nubra to Leh is picturesque. Add to that the promise of seeing the expanse of Pangong Lake, no wonder we were thrilled. The road conditions are not very good because firstly it’s not strategic and secondly there is a road expansion going on around Pangong. We still enjoyed the long hours on the road as the landscape kept changing.

Frozen Pangong Tso

Leh

Leh - Nubra - Pangong

• Only postpaid works in Leh. The internet and connectivity is good even in Nubra and Pangong.
• Take it easy on the first day. At 12000ft, the quick altitude change is challenging even to the healthy.
• Better to book a cab for the entire time of stay. Khardungla, Nubra and Pangong all need vehicle.
• May & June are the busiest seasons. We enjoyed the tranquillity of April. Frozen Pangong was a bonus.

We literally reached Leh in no time. I remember taking a call from my wife at Leh airport when she was thinking I am still at Delhi airport. Something so exotic is so accessible was a surprise. I generally prefer window seat and was thoroughly rewarded on our one hour flight to Leh with ice capped mountain view and amazing Himalayan landscape.

View of Leh from Shanti Stupa

Orchha Fort

Jhansi - Orchha

Orchha Fort was in my checklist since I missed it on my trip to Khajuraho. I had heard so much abut this bastion of Bundelkhand rulers that it would have been a tragedy to miss it twice. We left Jhansi Fort around 1 and reached Orchha by 2. Mauranipur, our destination for wedding we were here to attend, was still couple hours away.

Orchha Fort

Jhansi Fort

Jhansi - Orchha

We took at 8.10AM Gatimaan Express from Nizamuddin and we were at Jhansi before lunch. We were still about two hundred kilometers away from our destination Mauranipur. We were here for a wedding so we had ample time. We booked a cab that will be at our disposal till midnight when we had to take the returning train back to Delhi.

Jhansi Fort Entrance

Rishikesh

Rishikesh - Deoriatal - Tungnath

I truly explored Rishikesh on my trip to Deoriatal - Tungnath. We were three of us. An early morning Shatabdi dropped us at Haridwar and then we took a connecting train to Rishikesh. The holy city of Rishikesh has become a base for multiple routes and has grown itself multifold without expanding geographically.

View from Beatles Cafe

Pattadakal & Aihole

Trip: Badami, Pattadakal, Aihole & Bijapur

• Pattadakal and Aihole are very close and can be covered together. Pattadakal is more complex and is next to a river hence a better choice for resting and lunch.
• Aihole is smaller but filled with temples. There is a nearby temple ona small hillock as well that gives a good view of surrounding area.

Pattadakal Temple Complex

Gol Gumbaj, Bijapur

Trip: Badami, Pattadakal, Aihole & Bijapur

• Bijapur is best covered by own vehicle. Gol Gumbaj is the only attraction here and Bijapur is far from any place.
• The dome of Gol Gumbaj is a marvel, a true masterpiece of architecture. You will believe it when you are there.

We reached Bijapur on a winter afternoon and immediately decided to hit for the Gol Gumbaj. It is well maintained and well organised. In no time we had parked our vehicle in a huge parking area and were inside the grand structure. On top of us was the world famous dome but there was no way visible to reach there. From the ground it looked so high and empty that for a moment we thought the upper zone is not open for tourists.

Gol Gumbaj Main Entrance

Badami Caves

Trip: Badami, Pattadakal, Aihole & Bijapur

Tips: Winters are more suited for Karnataka hinterlands. Transportation is a challenge if you do not have own vehicle, so either rent a car or come with your own vehicle.

We drove to Badami on a rented car. Earlier the same day we landed at Hubli airport and rented a Zoomcar. It was very convenient. We settled in a pre-booked hotel and made plans for the next few days. We wanted to cover Badami, Pattadakal and Bijapur in next two days. The first choice was obviously Badami. Our hotel was next to the archeological site although the main entry gate was a walking distance away.

Natraj sculpture in front of Cave 1 @ Badami

Hemkund Sahib

• Hemkund is at a height of 15k ft. Best plan an acclimatisation day at Gangaria and a trip to Valley of Flower before attempting Hemkund.
• Check SpO2 before you start and if it is less than 90, take a Diamox tablet.

We reached Gangaria a day before after a long but enjoyable trek from Govindghat. Gangaria is a small village on the way to Hemkund and acts as a base camp for both Hemkund and Valley of Flower. We were surprised to find there was neither internet nor any kind of signal here. Nobody told us that we are going to be disconnected from the rest of the civilisation for the next 3 days.

En route to Gangaria, base village to Hemkund

Paro, Bhutan

Thimpu - Punakha - Paro - Tiger’s Nest

Our trip from Punakha to Paro was eventless. A coffee break at Dachula Pass and a halt for identification at a check point were the only stops before we entered the Paro valley. Our driver who turned out to be an expert guide as well, took a detour and brought us at a viewpoint from where the entire airport was visible. It was a beautiful view and scary as well. Hills rise quickly around Paro airport which makes it extremely difficult to take off or land a large plane. Our guide took this moment to sell his skills and we were quickly convinced.

Paro Airport from veiwpoint

Punakha, Bhutan

Thimpu - Punakha - Paro - Tiger’s Nest

The road from Thimphu to Punakha goes through a high point called Dochula Pass. It means that within a span of two hours you will face a gradual fall of temperature from 20 to 15 degrees and then again rise to 22 degrees when you reach the river base. Yes, rivers are omnipresent in Bhutan. The pass itself is a major tourist attraction thaks to a fantastic view of the valley and a construction of 108 towers at the roundabout representing fogotten martyrs.

Dochula Pass Memorial

Thimphu, Bhutan

Thimpu - Punakha - Paro - Tiger’s Nest

Imagine an untouched beauty. She wouldn't know how to respond to a touch - at best her response will be ambivalent. Bhutan is like that - a country that vehemently protects its proud & rich tradition although it heavily depends on tourism and a bunch of countries for funds and technology. We entered the royal country of Bhutan through Jaigaon on a rainy day. Next morning was spent in the immigration office to receive permit before we were told the road to Thimphu is blocked due to landslides.

View of Thimphu from Buddha Point

Sigri

Trip: Delhi - Nainital - Sigri - Delhi

• Go for the village walk in the evening. A golden sunset and glimpse of village life in the hills will be worth the exertion. You can even restock at the village shop.
• A trek to the highest point is the best way to spend the afternoon. Both the view and the effort to reach the high point is invigorating.
• Remember there is no cell signal in here. Visit Nainital in the evening. It is hardly an hour away and the buzzing marketplace is a good balancing act against the seclusion of Sigri.

Imagine a cozy resort nestled in an islotaed heaven deep in the Himalayas, inhabited with simple hillfolks, few hutments and no cell signal. What can you do, disconnected from the city? How about if you are with a bunch of close friends, enough booze and an entire resort staff at your command, not to forget a stunning view of the ice-capped Himalayas and pleasant weather. You would definitely want to go there.

Golden Sunset, Sigri

Kasol

• Staying in camp near the river is an option but consider for safety if you are going with family. There are good hotels near the market at good price as well.
• Kasol to Manikaran is a half hour walk. Trek around the river is main attraction apart from the obvious ones around smoke.
• The city is small and cozy. People start walking at evening till late night and try different joints specializing in food from different part of world. Don't miss that.

Kasol is as different a hill station as possible - a flowing river right next to it, surrounded by high hills and the charm of Malana cream - all add to a mystery that attracts youths around the world to this small town. We reached Kasol at noon after a spiritual morning well spent at Manikaran.

On way to Chhalal

Manikaran Sahib

• Don't come by car if you can. Park your car wherever you are staying and walk to Manikaran. There are Volvo buses that ferry around here which create massive jams.
• Come prepared for the holy dip in the hot spring water below the Gurudwara. Food served at the gurudwara is tasty and healthy. Dont miss that.
• The scenic view of Manikaran is best visible from high ground. Try to find one. The holy town bisected by a sizeable river is beauty to behold.

We drove and drove and drove and reached Manikaran exactly in 30 hours. This included a comfy stay at a resort near Mandi overnight. Hence we were fresh and full on energy when we hit the holy city. The first glance of Manikaran gives an impression of a bowl with a liquid flowing through it. Surrounded by high hills and dissected by Parvati river, the city automatically brings the spiritual in you to fore.

Manikaran Sahib

Hill Fort, Kesroli

• Great food, picturesque swimming pool and solitude, these are what Hill Fort Kesroli offers to you. If you are looking for adventure, go somewhere else.
• Morning walks around the village and fields is possible. Hotel also offers bicycles to help you take a round. 
• Bhangarh and Abhineri are each an hour away although in different directions. You can go for them if you are staying for couple days.

Hill Fort Kesroli is a Neemrana property and inaccessible to outsiders. You need to book a room to even enter the premises which is on high grounds and not at all easy to reach. It was my birthday and so we decided to spend a night at the resort. The August sun was bright as we drove from Gurgaon to Kesroli near Alwar in two and half hours. We checked in and roamed around the property. While the entrance is a climb, the fort is an easy navigation with rooms on two levels.

Swimming pool at lower levels, Hill Fort Kesroli

Devprayag

• Devprayag is a half day trip from Rishikesh although to be fair, it needs a full day to appreciate the drive and the point. 
• Roads are in perfect condition and well managed. There are very few good restaurants and no petrol pump before Devprayag so plan accordingly. 
• The river Ganges flow to your right all the way to Devprayag which throws multiple viewpoints to saviour. Take a break now and then and appreciate the work of mother nature on these hills.

Devprayag is one of those gems that are not hidden but surrounded by bigger gems and hence ignored. In itself it is worthy of a day trip as we figured while standing at the merging point of two distinctly coloured rivers. The holy incantations and energetic crowd only help create a captivating zone around this point which is in a shape of cake slice.

View of Devprayag from top

Top 5 travel circuits from Delhi

Delhi - Agra - Fatehpur Sikri - Bharatpur - Mathura - Vrindavan - Delhi

Delhi - Sariska - Jaipur - Ajmer - Neemrana - Delhi

Delhi - Haridwar - Mussoorie - Kanatal - Tehri - Rishikesh - Delhi

Delhi - Jim Corbett - Nainital - Mukteshwar - Delhi

Delhi - Chandigarh - Kasauli - Shimla - Kufri - Chail - Delhi

Delhi - Agra - Fatehpur Sikri - Bharatpur - Mathura - Vrindavan - Delhi

• Can be covered in 2 days flat 
• Includes 4 UNESCO World Heritage Sites 
• Stay overnight at Bharatpur, near the gates of Keoladeo National Park

Bharatpur Bird Sactuary

Namchi

Gangtok - Tsomgo - Namchi - Darjeeling

• Take a cab to cover Samdruptse and Char Dham. They are in opposite directions so it will take couple hours each to cover them. We paid 10$ for this.

• Stay in Namchi although its a small city. A better plan is to move to Darjeeling or Gangtok and spend the evening there. Both are three hours away from Namchi.

• Start early if you are not staying at Namchi. Late in the evening the availability of transport options to move out of the city simply dry up.

Namchi came up on tripadvisor as one of the top five destinations within Sikkim. It was roughly on our way from Gangtok to Darjeeling so we went for it. How wrong we were. Not that Namchi disappointed us, but the road from Namchi to Darjeeling is so much in tatters that we were jittery all the way.

Shiva Statue, Namchi

Tsomgo

Gangtok - Tsomgo - Namchi - Darjeeling

• Nathula is closed on Monday and documents are to be submitted (including passport size photographs) one day in advance so plan accordingly.

• Better come with warm clothes else you will have to take reused ones on rent. The trip goes to a height of 14k feet. At this altitude even oxygen is thin.

• Go for the bunker of Baba Harbhajan Singh beyond Kupup. There is shrine much before the bunker where most people go but thats not real.

A trip to Nathu La is expected when you visit Gangtok. We didn't take it. In fact we crossed Nathu La from a mile and didn't take it. We were told its overhyped - being one of the three motorable roads to China from India does not mean you will see something out of the world. Instead we went for the farthest village called Kupup beyond which lies the shrine of soldier Harbhajan Singh.

Tsomgo Lake